A costume drama always presents a curious set of demands for their designer, historic accuracy balanced against the visual and narrative needs of the script. In this film, Emily is often kitted out in darker colours than her siblings, setting her apart. Unlike them, her bonnet is not trimmed with flowers. There is something that feels subtly practical about her attire, perhaps even rebellious. How true to life is this? The thunder and lightning dress has its origin story, but what about everything else? For Oscar-winning costume designer Michael O’Connor, who has previously worked on films including Ammonite, The Duchess, and Jane Eyre, it was simple. “My idea was to be authentic, and real to the time,” he tells Vogue. “You want to be working with the correct shapes and types of material… [as well as] the correspondence describing [the Brontës’] clothing.”
To achieve that accuracy, he enlisted the help of Eleanor Houghton, an author, illustrator, and historic dress consultant who specialises in 18th- and 19th-century costume, with a particular focus on Charlotte Brontë. Houghton provided extensive research on remaining items from the Brontë sisters’ wardrobes (many of which are kept at the Parsonage in Haworth where they lived), and the references made to their clothing in letters and other texts. There’s a simple reason why it’s easier to research Charlotte than the other sisters. “A lot of Charlotte’s closet survived… because she lived longer than the rest of them,” Houghton explains. However, this presents several immediate challenges. Although belongings from an earlier time remain, when Emily and Anne were still alive, many of Charlotte’s clothes were bought after she’d achieved both fame and financial success: transforming not just what she could afford, but her understanding of what was desirable. Various garments were also updated over the decades in line with changing styles, making it harder to pinpoint what they would have first looked like. “Things would be remodelled,” Houghton adds. “People would rework dresses to reflect the later fashions… you have to undo what’s gone before so you can get back to the original style.”
In general, Houghton thinks that our current view of the Brontë sisters is too dull. “We see the pillar portrait [by Branwell Brontë] and we imagine these really drab, boring clothes. But my research has proved that really wasn’t the case.” Like many women of their era, the Brontë sisters would have been conscious of what they wore – especially as the daughters of a vicar, with a reputation to maintain in the community. Living in Yorkshire, they were also on the fringes of a booming textile trade. “It was very much on the doorstep of the Industrial Revolution,” Houghton adds. “Prints and fabrics were a common part of everyday life. They were being literally created there in Lancashire, in West Riding. Even in Haworth itself, there were weaving workshops.”
(Read more) (Rosalind Jana)
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