Ian Griffiths, the British creative director of Max Mara, starts with what real women wear and builds fashion out from there, rather than the other way around. This season, he wanted to do big skirts.
“So I thought: what story do I attach to this, to give it drama? We all have our dramas going on inside, so our clothes should, too.” A weekend in Yorkshire led him to the Brontë heroines Catherine Earnshaw and Jane Eyre, and a collection of rustling greatcoats, hardy layers with bellow pockets, chunky boots, stiff tweeds and grand velvets.
There was nothing Victorian about the clothes on the catwalk. “I’m not doing costume drama,” Griffiths said backstage. On his moodboard, an image of a woman looking out of a plane window was pinned next to a portrait of the Brontë sisters, “because I never forget that the woman I’m designing for is more likely to be getting on a plane to New York or marching through the corridors of power than marching across the moors. She’s probably a corporate lawyer.” (Jess Cartner-Morley)
Max Mara's newest collection is for the woman in touch with her inner self and for the woman who dreams through enmeshing herself in literature, according to Creative Director Ian Griffiths. "We are living in a particular moment, there is a threatening world that we are dealing with and I believe that clothes help you to face it better. More generally, an elegant look makes you feel good. This morning, for example, I wore my three-piece suit and I was happy to start the day," he wrote in show notes.
For the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, he has a very clear idea of the type of woman he is dressing: she who is "refined, strong, cultured, intelligent, capable of living even her most emotional side, a woman who reads," show notes read for the show presented during Milan Fashion Week.
Specifically, he is passionate about two great classics of English literature, Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights by Charlotte and Emily Brontë, respectively, where the protagonists are indomitable heroines. To outline the look of the season, Griffiths also looks at the portraits of Julia Margaret Cameron, great-aunt of Virginia Woolf, a rare female photographer of the Victorian era who specialized in dreamy female portraits. (Cristina Manfredi)
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